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Hands down the best all around belay device!! - Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device
by
The Real ME,
from UT, United States
Written on March 20, 2020
The Real ME's Review of Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device
Hands down the best all around belay device in my opinion. It's basically a combination of an ATC, Guide, and a Gri Gri all in one, but at a fraction of the weight and way more durability! Super light weight (65g) and stainless steel so it doesn’t wear out like aluminum devices. Also, it doesn't heat up as much while rappelling or lowering.
I used to burn through a reverso every season and a gri every couple years. Been using my megajul for over 4 years now with no sign of wear! It also doesn’t get your rope as dirty since there’s no anodized coating to wear off into your rope. Especially when used with a steel or bulletproof belay biner. And even more so if you use the bulletproof quickdraws for protection!
The brake assist works great, especially on ropes 9.5mm and under. Pays out effortlessly but locks up when you need it. Also works great in guide mode, again better with a smaller diameter rope.
Extremely versatile with the ability to rappel in regular mode like a classic atc, and also in brake assist mode which is super helpful when cleaning a route, untangling ropes while on rappel, or working on a stuck price of gear.
Like any new piece of equipment it took a short while to get used to using, but now I am completely sold and have been for years. I use mine for everything from single pitch sport cragging to ground up big wall FAs. It has replaced all my other belay device needs since it does it all! Can’t say enough how much I love my megajul!
Pros:
Light weight
extremely durable
Versitile
Safe
environmentally friendly
Cons:
will make you want to throw away all your other belay devices
Best Used for:
Trad climbing, Alpine climbing
Sport & Gym climbing
Rappelling caving
looking rad
Would Recommend:
Yes
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