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A note on size, for those needing guidance. - Five Ten Dragon - Men's
by
Picklepee,
Verified Owner
from UT, United States
Written on April 16, 2020
(**Sizing info is in the second paragraph**)I got these purely as a bouldering shoe for anything past 35 Degrees overhanging, and the following is what I have learned about them and it may contain something you may not know, hopefully it helps you. These shoes are not made for slabs, vertical face dime edges or putting the majority of your weight constantly(As the shoe rubber used is Stealth HF, A.K.A. 5.10's softest rubber, which doesn't edge well under substantial weight). They are made specifically for steep Boulders/Routes where you do not need to put much weight on your feet. This is because the intense downturn of the shoe can help keep as much weight as possible on your feet at steep angles due to the softness of the rubber(As it requires less weight on it to generate friction between it and the rock). Anyways, I would not recommend these if you intend to mostly do slab, vertical or slightly overhanging climbing. I have yet to test them outdoors(Only on wooden holds at home) but I will be able to do that soon enough. I will try to update this once I do that.
ON SIZING... (Details about my foot shape and all that are at the bottom.)
My street shoe size is 10(Mens), and I can wear 9.5 comfortably as well depending on the brand. Climbing shoes I have worn for comparison are the Madrock Demons 2.0 Size 8 and the La Sportiva Solution Size 8(40.5Euro). Both were performance fitted and took some time to become "comfortable." The New Dragons(Lace Ups) I ordered are Size 8.5(Mens) and they fit right out of the box. They are more uncomfortable than the other shoes I mentioned but not excruciating. I have not climbed with them yet but I have tested them with my weight on footholds while hangboarding. I am hoping they will still be relatively tight once they break in as I got them at this size for that reason. If I wanted a more comfortable fit then I would have ordered a 9(Mens), but as long as these break in a little they should be fine. SO based off my feet(Details below) I would say -1.5 Sizes is a more intense performance fit while -1 Size will still be snug and probably better for routes.
My feet are as follows(In inches).
Length: 9 and 3/4.
Width(Base of Toes): 3 and 3/4.
Width(Heel): 2 and 1/4th.
My foot shape: My arches are normal compared to others and are neither low or high really. I also have relatively narrow feet for a guy. My big toe is much larger when compared to the rest, and the others have a VERY slight curve getting smaller down to the pinky toe. Feet are so gross...
Best Used for:
Steep Bouldering/Sport
Would Recommend:
Yes
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