Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's
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Joey's Review of Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

After calling all the outdoor stores in the Sacramento area to find out that no one carried mountaineering boots, I ordered this boot along with 3 others, the Nepal Evo GTX, the regular Mont Blanc, and a pair of Kaylands. The Kaylands were much too small and I didn't get a chance to even wear them. The regular Mont Blancs were initially my favorite from a foot comfort in the boot perspective, but after wearing them up and down stairs for some time, it became clear that the tongue was much too stiff and would likely cause issues on my shin down the road. The Nepal Evo's fit differently, but work for me and were the finalists with the Pro's. Here is what I would add from an in-house test...

Scarpas - much more nimble feeling, sockfit was immediately noticeable, more forward leaning angle "stance" while wearing them, way more room in the footbox, easy to adjust upper and lower boot lace tension. My concerns - much less insulation than Nepals, less "burlier" feeling, the tongue on the scarpas seems like a place where moisture/ice/snow could stick to, but with that said, the tongue is also really nice for distributing tension evenly.

Nepals - heavier, burlier, still comfortable, less insole such that I could almost feel "seams" under the insole, in particular under my heel. I like how the tongue goes all the way up to the top of the boot and also the velcro pad under the tongue for dialing in fit.

I am a 10.5 in a dress shoe and a 10.5-11 in running/hiking shoes. I ordered 45.5 thinking I would use these boots for winter mountaineering. After contacting several guide services I am going to be using this year leading up to Aconcagua, I am now going for a pair of Spantiks right off the bat for use on springtime ascents and overnight trips. As a result, I am going to exchange the boots for one size smaller as the need to accommodate two pairs of expedition socks is not necessary. If I weren't buying a double boot, I would have gone with the Nepals as the added insulation is noticeable and other reviews on the Pro's indicate moisture issues in slushy snow. With a dedicated winter mountaineering boot, the Pro's are a better fit due to less insulation and more freedom of ankle movement.
Pros:
  • Comfortable
  • freedom of movement
  • No break in
  • lighter weight
  • lace system
Cons:
  • lower warmth
  • moisture concerns
Best Used for:
  • Dry conditions
  • Non-winter mountaineering
Would Recommend: Yes
Was it helpful to you? Yes | No
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