I bought these shoes on more a less a whim; my shamans were breaking through the toe, I was in the market for an aggressive bouldering shoe, and these happened to be on sale. Look around online and you'll see they size very similarly to the shamans (I'm 10 in both).
Pros:
- The edging precision is INSANE. Seriously, I can trust crappy little slick edges like never before.
- The heel is a fantastic shape, similar to that of the miuras. My shamans had a good few mm of space all around the heel, and this heel is tight to my skin.
- Surprisingly sticky rubber. While I still kick these off for my slippers when I need to do really smeary problems, the stickiness of the rubber does a lot to make up for the little contact area provided by the stiff, downturned sole.
- Really comfortable. The shoe is lined all the way through, and even though I really like the feel of bare leather on my feet I must admit that the lining makes up for a bit of the aggressive downturn discomfort.
- They don't stink! I always shove dryer sheets in my other shoes to help combat odor, but I've been climbing in these for months without doing anything to them and they smell fine.
Cons:
- The sole is maybe a bit TOO stiff. Toe hooks and bat hangs, while uncommon, do suffer a bit due to how tightly these shoes wrench your toes down.
- After only about a month of climbing in these shoes I started to notice a spot on the tip of the toe where it appears the sole didn't quite laminate properly. Bummer :(
Overall...
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