by
Christopher C.,
Verified Owner
from NM, United States
Written on March 21, 2016
Very impressed with how it's been working so far- the locking mechanism works as advertised and is pretty easy to unlock once you get the hang of the operation. Pretty similar to a standard ATC, so the learning curve isn't too steep. Been using it with the crag smart mammut carabiner, which is a perfect match (no surprise) for the smart belay device.
Would recommend: Yes
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by
Francisco C.,
Verified Owner
from ID, United States
Written on February 16, 2016
The only reason I purchased the Smart was for its assisted breaking/locking capabilities. The assisted locking capabilities pay dividends when you have a climber that is working out a sequence and they are sitting quite a bit and of course in the event that something happens to the belayer.
It did take some time to get used to using it overall but I was able to catch on quick except when I needed to lower someone that had been leading or top roping. At first when I would lower folks it would be jerky and it was hard to find the 'sweet spot' where I could feed rope and easily lower someone. However with practice I was able to do it just fine although controlling the rate of descent is much harder than with other devices like the ATC. You almost have to make sure that your rope is flaked out properly without any twists to ensure a smooth ride down. I have not rappelled with it yet but I suspect that I may run into the same problems. Someone had suggested about extending the rappel so asto make it easier but I can not confirm that.
I found no problems with belaying a leader, just pull the device out and up when feeding rope and try to stay ahead of the climber's needs and you'll be fine. All in all, I think that for the price and the added benefits it provides it is a great piece of gear.
Would recommend: Yes
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by
Bruce M.,
from IA, United States
Written on October 16, 2015
The Smart Alpine is a great belay device. I used a tube style for awhile without much reservation. After my started climbing I really became concerned with the availability of safer belay devices. All over our gym you will see GriGri and other locking devices similar to it. They are expensive and considering the safety, the money is likely worth it. With that being said the Smart Alpine is able to 'out-do' any locking belay device similar to the GriGri. This has no moving parts and therefore lesser concern for failure. This belay device has room for two ropes (outdoor climbing) and is lightweight and ergonomically designed. Easy to use and doesn't remove the belayer from the process which is a danger with GriGri or lever activated devices. Be alert to the size differences in both models of this belay device. One is for a smaller caliber rope (not most gyms) and the other is for larger diameter ropes. Call your local gym for their rope diameters or know your own rope size when at the crag. Far too overlooked of a device, don't hesitate in purchasing.
Would recommend: Yes
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by
Taylor C.,
from CA, United States
Written on August 27, 2015
This device is awesome, it auto locks on belay and rappel
Would recommend: Yes
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by
Charles,
Written on December 12, 2013
After using a reverso for years and recently switching to the Smart, I'm sold. Using the smart is essentially just like any other tube-style device, its like an auto-locking ATC. There are no moving parts or cams to get iced up. The auto-lock feature takes a moment to get used to when feeding rope, but after one climb you'll be feeding smooth and fast. Rappelling is a little jerky when used in a
Would recommend: Yes
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