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carabiner of choice
Petzl bits overs Black Diamond: The ultra light weight carabiner and quickdraws for multi pitch that works well under freezing weather and/or frozen fingers. Petzl Ange I prefer large over small. Campsaver offers the best price on all mountaineering products. They also offer best customer service
Would recommend: Yes
Innovative design with a flaw
In terms of specifications, these biners are hard to beat. I tried using them both in draws and for racking. They felt weird at first, but I got used to them eventually. There is one serious problem however. The gate seems to be easy to bend sideways, and once that happens, it does not close properly unless you push it in. A fatal flow in any biner that I expect to work at full load, in my opinion. This actually happened to only one of my Ange biners, but it feels like this can happen to any of them, single-wire gate just does not offer enough rigidity in that direction.
Pros:
- Light
- compact
- strong
Cons:
- unreliable
Would recommend: No
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