Reviews & Ratings for Scarpa Scarpa Instinct VSR Climbing Shoes — 3 reviews — Page 1

This is my second pair. Not as great for face-climbing compare to flatter shoes. Heel hooks are very reliable. VSR shines at overhangs. Snug fit. It doesn't have an aggressive curve, so it is more comfortable than Drago-like shoes during long climbs.

There is a trend these days to have Men's & Women's climbing shoes. I don't see why - with the exception of color schemes there really isn't any difference in the construction and design of the shoe. Climbing is not like going to the office or out on a date where style and function is often very gender specific. Climbing shoes are designed for specific climbing environs, foot shapes and body weights. I specifically bought these shoes for the style, medium aggressive & moderate asymmetry; rubber type, good for low to medium weight climbers, and low vow volume, I have a smallish narrow foot. So far they are performing. For me they run true to size with almost no stretch. My street shoe is US 9 (EU 42/42.5). I tried these in a 41.5 that was just a bit too tight. If you feel the need for the foot binding torture then down size a full size; otherwise stay at your street size or down 1/2. I am not a pro climber so my feet need a stiff shoe to help me really use my feet - these work. BTW I only gave them 4 stars because they are still new to me.

I primarily climb indoors and these are great for bouldering and top-roping. I was surprised at how well these are for toe-holds and smearing, at times these shoes make me feel like I'm glued to the wall. The shoe is definitely softer and breaks in fairly quickly (mine broke in nicely after about 3 sessions). The fit on these is very similar to the Instinct VS, but it is a bit narrower (a selling point for somone like me with narrow feet).

For sizing reference, I usually wear a 39.5 (solution/otaki) or 40 in sportivas (miura VS), 40.5 in Vapor V and US men's 8/8.5 in street shoes.