Reviews by Jed
Bomber biner
Written on Feb 04, 2018
Review for
DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner
I got this to go with a Megajul Sport, and with a little use so far, it seems to work well. I got the locksafe model, and between the extra unlocking step, the keeper wire, and the horn, this thing will never, ever fall off my belay loop, drop the belay device, or get cross-loaded. It's a little tricky to get on and off the belay loop, but I'm sure I'll get more used to it, and it's worth an extra second for the added security.
1 of 1 found the following review helpful.
Great for solid draws
Written on Feb 04, 2018
Review for
Trango Tough Dogbone
This was a great purchase to add to my quickdraw quiver. My standard is the Petzl Access, and this meets that. Compared to the Access, (both 17 cm), it's straight, rather than tapering at the top, and both ends have a little more play. Otherwise essentially identical.
0 of 0 found the following review helpful.
Rubber broke
Written on Feb 04, 2018
Review for
Black Diamond Vari-width Dogbone
The webbing part of this is great. It's solid and wide. The little internal rubber piece that holds the bentgate biner in place, though, broke really easily, the first time I tried putting a Mammut Bionic in there. The external keepers (ala Petzl) are much better.
1 of 1 found the following review helpful.
Great brake assist device, for belaying and rappeling
Written on Feb 04, 2018
Review for
Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Device
After using tubers for a couple decades, I thought it was time to check out one of the newer devices, to give my brake hand a break when belaying someone working a route. After lots of searching, the original Megajul fit the bill. Awesome, light, cheap, and effective. It was just a little 'stuttery' when lowering.
I got it before realizing that this model was available. This is definitely better. It doesn't have the 'guide/top belay' capability of the original, but I still have that one if I ever need that. And a guide ATC, for that matter. The Megajul Sport just feeds better, both when belaying someone up, or lowering them down.
So, for 2/3 the price of a grigri, I now have two devices that do essentially the same thing, plus they can both do double-rope rappels, with the same auto-locking ability that they have when belaying. I can give one to a partner who wants or needs that extra safety factor, and still have one for myself.
No-brainer.
I got it before realizing that this model was available. This is definitely better. It doesn't have the 'guide/top belay' capability of the original, but I still have that one if I ever need that. And a guide ATC, for that matter. The Megajul Sport just feeds better, both when belaying someone up, or lowering them down.
So, for 2/3 the price of a grigri, I now have two devices that do essentially the same thing, plus they can both do double-rope rappels, with the same auto-locking ability that they have when belaying. I can give one to a partner who wants or needs that extra safety factor, and still have one for myself.
No-brainer.
0 of 0 found the following review helpful.
Minimalist brake assist
Written on Feb 04, 2018
Review for
Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Belay Kit
After using tubers for a couple decades, I thought it was time to check out one of the newer devices, to give my brake hand a break when belaying someone working a route. After lots of searching, the original Megajul fit the bill. Awesome, light, cheap, and effective. It was just a little 'stuttery' when lowering.
I got it before realizing that this model was available. This is definitely better. It doesn't have the 'guide/top belay' capability of the original, but I still have that one if I ever need that. And a guide ATC, for that matter. The Megajul Sport just feeds better, both when belaying someone up, or lowering them down.
The carabiner that came with this is nice. I'll use it on my PAS, since the 'keeper wire' will keep it attached to the PAS sling. Completely worry-free.
So, for 2/3 the price of a grigri, I now have two devices that do essentially the same thing, plus they can both do double-rope rappels, with the same auto-locking ability that they have when belaying. I can give one to a partner who wants or needs that extra safety factor, and still have one for myself.
No-brainer.
I got it before realizing that this model was available. This is definitely better. It doesn't have the 'guide/top belay' capability of the original, but I still have that one if I ever need that. And a guide ATC, for that matter. The Megajul Sport just feeds better, both when belaying someone up, or lowering them down.
The carabiner that came with this is nice. I'll use it on my PAS, since the 'keeper wire' will keep it attached to the PAS sling. Completely worry-free.
So, for 2/3 the price of a grigri, I now have two devices that do essentially the same thing, plus they can both do double-rope rappels, with the same auto-locking ability that they have when belaying. I can give one to a partner who wants or needs that extra safety factor, and still have one for myself.
No-brainer.
0 of 0 found the following review helpful.
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