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Featured Reviews
Most Helpful Positive Review
So far so good.
I have worn almost every shoe that Sportiva has made in the last 12 years, and the Genius feels very much like the Testarossa but with the ability to toe hook and more importantly they make the tiniest, slopiest foot holds feel like you are actually standing on something.
I have only used these to climb outdoors in, 3 days so far, and all the bad reviews I've seen are related to their indoor ability.
I picked these up after my very positive experience with the Futura, and despite the different lasts, and supposed stiffness, they feel like the same shoe to me. . . so if you are up in the ai...
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All Reviews
The ace up my sleeve
I was originally skeptical about the no-edge technology, but after my first day of bouldering outdoors in them I am completely sold. It took a moment to get used to the different feel in my footwork, but pretty quickly I was trusting edges I never would have felt solid on before. I have several pairs of La Sportiva shoes in my quiver: TC Pro, Otaki, Katana Lace, Testarossa, and Genius but these are my go-to for sending tough boulder problems outdoors. The sensitivity is fantastic but I don't find them to be very painful over a long day of bouldering surprisingly. The lacing system allows you to really dial in the fit, and they broke in relatively fast. I have a wider foot, so I was apprehensive as to whether they would end up fitting ok, but they did. I wouldn't buy them as your only shoes if you do a wide variety of climbing or if you are newer to the sport, but they fill a great need when things get steep or delicate nuances in footwork are needed.
Would recommend: Yes
Top notch sensitivity, comfortable for an aggressive shoe.
These are by far the most sensitive shoe I've worn. It makes finding the correct foot placement easy and secure feeling. No comparison to many of the other shoes I've used. These have excelled in overhanging, slab, small edges, almost anything I've thrown at them. I appreciate the heel of these compared to many other La Sportiva models (namely S-heel models) as the achilles tension is far more bearable with the Genius. The lacing system also works great for finding a secure fit.
Pros:
- Comfortable
- sensitivity
Cons:
- wide
Best Used for:
- overhanging
- technical
Would recommend: Yes
Didn't Work For Me
I got a great deal on these through CampSaver. I needed to step up from my beginner shoes, the Tarantula's. I tried to make these work, but I never felt good in them. From what I heard these are designed as high-sensitivity shoes, and that's exactly how they feel. The grip and NoEdge are fantastic, but my feet just couldn't handle the beating. In my amateur judgement I would say don't get these shoes if you are a beginner or intermediate. I went with a pair Scarpa Vapor V's instead.
Would recommend: Yes
1 of 1 found the following review helpful.
Aggressive yet comfortable
Loving these shoes so far. I've been using them for steep bouldering and sport climbing and have no complaints.
I sized them 0.5 EU smaller than my Katana Laces and they fit perfectly. Unlike the Katana Laces, the Geniuses did not need any break-in time (fit tight but comfortable straight out of the box). At least for me, the Genius has a better heel too.
I sized them 0.5 EU smaller than my Katana Laces and they fit perfectly. Unlike the Katana Laces, the Geniuses did not need any break-in time (fit tight but comfortable straight out of the box). At least for me, the Genius has a better heel too.
Would recommend: Yes
Fast shipping.
It was exactly what I ordered. I can't review the product because it was a gift for someone but they seemed happy with the shoes.
Would recommend: Yes
0 of 1 found the following review helpful.
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